Wednesday, May 29, 2013

72 Hours In Bali: Where To Eat & Drink

Day 1 // Arrive at Denpasar - Drive to Seminyak

12pm: Made's Warung [Indonesian $] 
Upon touchdown, head over to Made's, a tourist friendly* Kuta institution first established in 1969 to satiate your Indonesian food cravings. I don't normally eat rice, but that didn't stop me from inhaling the flavourful half and half nasi campur and gado gado; which are respectively rice topped with a variety of meats and vegetables, and a salad of vegetables soaked in peanut sauce. You can't leave Bali without trying both. In addition to Balinese and Indonesian cuisine, Made's also serves some Thai, Japanese and Western dishes, but why bother? Wash down with some teh botol (sweetened Indonesian iced tea) or coconut water, and welcome to Bali. Two branches in Kuta.

*While I normally eschew touristy spots, I picked a more established warung as opposed to the more local/authentic ones as I have a weak stomach and wanted a more hygienic place. 


Made's Warung (Br Seminyak)
Jalan Raya Seminyak
Kuta, Bali
(+62) 361-732-130

Open daily 8am to 12am
http://www.madeswarung.com


3pm: Anomali Coffee [Cafe $]
I never knew Indonesia produced coffee beans before this trip. Anomali is a cafe that only uses only locally grown coffee beans, and roasts all their beans on site. The house blend I tried that day was strong, aromatic with with a clean lingering finish. Ask the helpful baristas to let you smell their range of available beans on display, that have notes ranging from floral, fruity, nutty to tobacco-ish.
Aside from the great coffee, the cafe has a grungy, industrial look going on with oil drums as tables, and a chemistry-lab looking kitchen in the middle. Way cool. This place is a must go for coffee fans in Bali. They also have a branches in Jakarta and Ubud.


Anomali Coffee (Seminyak)
7B Jalan Kayu Aya
Seminyak, Bali
+62 (0)361-736-687 
Daily 7am to 10pm
http://www.anomalicoffee.com 

7pm: Mama San [Pan Asian $$]
For date night, head over to Mama San, an uber chic pan Asian restaurant, bar and lounge in Kerobokan. The menu here is a long list of modern Chinese, Indian and South East Asian "street food". IMO, Mama San is the kind of restaurant that SG needs, because why should we expect authentic Asian food (except Japanese) to be cheap, while we are willing pay through the nose for anything Western? Anyway, I digress. Popular dishes here include the BBQ duck steamed buns with Hoisin, Vietnamese grilled minced pork belly, crispy lamb ribs and the many Thai and Indian curries. Even its Asian inspired dessert menu looked original, so it was a pity we were too full by then. Apart from the winning food and drinks, Mama San's lovely decor (a blend of a Manhattan gentlemen's club and old Shanghai) and sexy, laid back vibe instantly transports you to an enchanting, far away place. Don't give this a miss. Reservations are a must for dinner and recommended for lunch.

 
Coconut mojito

Mama San
135 Jalan Raya
Kerobokan, Bali
+62 (0)361-730-436
Open daily 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm
http://www.mamasanbali.com


Day 2 // Seminyak

12pm: The Bistrot [European & Asian $$]
For a charming lunch option, The Bistrot, is a restaurant and lounge in Seminyak that serves French and Asian cuisine.
Set in the most gorgeous loft space, it has an eclectic, vintage decor with ornate chandeliers, displays of carefully curated antiques and artwork. Even the table we sat on was converted from a vintage Singer sewing machine. It's a little bit Brooklyn, a little bit Morocco (one of the owners is from there) and of course, unmistakably Bali. Choose from the selection of tapas, salads, and tartines for a light lunch. But really, the point of dining here is to gawk at the decor, which my pictures absolutely do no justice for. This place is definitely one of the prettiest restaurants I've ever been to. If your accommodation doesn't come with breakfast, they have a separate breakfast menu that runs from 730am to 1130am that features pancakes and eggs.




The Bistrot
117 Jalan Kayu Aya
Seminyak, Bali
(+62) 361-738-308
Open daily from 730am to 12am (breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner, late night menus available)
http://www.bistrot-bali.com 

3pm: Potato Head Beach Club [Beach Club $$]
Imagine this scene: you are lounging on a daybed, indulging in a little see and be seen action, with
clear blue skies above you, a fruity beach cocktail in hand and luscious Bossa Nova beats playing in the background against the backdrop of soothing, breaking waves. There is no better place to live out this cubicle rat dream at the iconic Potato Head Beach Club, the largest and most happening beach club in Seminyak. Designed as a modern take on the Colosseum, its facade is constructed using mismatched 18th century teak shutters collected from all across the Indonesian archipelago. If you fancy, there is also an infinity pool by the daybeds that you can take a dip in (all eyes on you). Needless to say, it's a quintessential Seminyak experience. Make reservations and descend there early to chope your prime spot to catch the sunset.




Potato Head Beach Club
Jalan Petitenget
Seminyak, Bali 80361
+62 (0)361-473-7979
Open daily 11am to 2am
http://www.ptthead.com
 

7pm: Sardine [Seafood $$$]
I had the best meal of my trip, and to be honest one of the best meals I've ever had at Sardine, a seafood centric restaurant in Petitenget. You'll dine overlooking swathes of padi fields, underneath a striking bamboo structure. Freshly caught seafood from Jimbaran Bay are expertly cooked, and dish after dished didn't fail to impress. Organic vegetables and herbs grown from their own farm are also used. It's all about letting the produce shine here with light, Asian touches,
which I thought was reminiscent of Californian cuisine. Must tries include the market fresh sashimi, smoked sardines, scallops served on the half shell with nuoc cham and the grilled fish "Jimbaran" style with sambal. For dessert, the Lampung-shade grown black pepper ice cream on tropical fruits was an unexpected delight, and will be a party in your mouth. They also serve a series of potent Arak cocktails, a potent Indonesian coconut liquor. Make reservations and try to come before dark to catch this winning view.

 




Sardine
21 Jalan Petitenget
Kerobokan, Bali
+62 (0)361-738-202
Open daily from 1130am to 1am (last order 11pm)
http://www.sardinebali.com


Day 3 // Ubud (~1.5 hours drive away)

12pm: Bebek Bengil [Indonesian $]
One of the must try dishes in Bali is the crispy duck at Bebek Bengil 'Dirty Duck' Diner, a popular restaurant in Ubud. My Indonesian friend said that the famous Babi Guling (suckling pig) from Ibu Oka of Anthony Bourdain fame was overrated, and asked me to try this instead. The duck here is first steamed in Indonesian spices and deep fried till crispy while still moist on the inside, and has a slightly herbal taste. It's not quite French duck confit, Cantonese roast duck nor Peking duck; you have to try it for yourself. An individual serving is half a duck with steamed rice, side of Balinese vegetables and trio of spicy piquant sauces but as the ducks used here are kampung (free range) ducks, they are quite small and will leave you craving for more. Skip the other dishes since this is after all a duck specialty restaurant.


Bebek Bengil
Jalan Hanoman, Padang Tegal
Ubud, Bali, 80571
+62 (0)361-975-489
Open daily 9am to 11pm
http://bebekbengil.com

3pm: ALCHEMY [Raw & Organic Vegan, Juice & Smoothie Bar $]
In between the trekking, yoga-ing and sweating in Ubud, a glass of freshly squeezed juice sounds like a great idea and there is no better place to alkalise and hydrate your body than at ALCHEMY, a cheery, hippie-friendly cafe and health food store. Their classic green juice of cucumber and leafy greens (parsley, spinach, kale, celery, bok choy), may sound revolting to some, but I assure you that it tastes absolutely delicious. If you're still skeptical, get it mixed with some other fruits or coconut water. Apart from being a juice and smoothie bar, it is also a raw and organic vegan cafe that sells salads and raw desserts (such as raw chocolate*) which were surprisingly better than I expected. The focus here being in Bali, is of course, local, organic, sustainable; and even the straws used here are papaya stems - cool beans huh?

*If you're wondering what on earth is raw chocolate, it is essentially made by mixing pure cacao powder with nautral ingredients such as coconut oil, cocoa butter, vanilla beans; minus the the preservatives, chemicals, additives, etc. that are present in mass produced, mainstream chocolate.

 
ALCHEMY
Jalan Penestanan 
Ubud, Bali, 80571
+62 (0)361-971-981
Open daily 7am to 9pm
http://alchemybali.com

7pm: Naughty Nuri's [Ribs $]
I'm not a big fan of ribs, since I don't really fancy the flavour of barbeque sauce or pork (except roast pork). But Naughty Nuri's ribs are a different story. One of my friends who lived in Texas claims it's the best ribs she has tried outside of Texas. Despite its famed name, it just looks like any warung with its wooden shack and corrugated roof, and only has one smoky grill outside manned by a very hardworking lady. The ribs, I believe, are already partially pre-cooked, before being dunked into a big basin of secret barbeque sauce (with some kecap manis perhaps?), grilled only upon order and served with a slice of lime. The result: melt in your mouth ribs, with a sauce so lickable your hands will be clean too. While this is the original branch, they also have another new branch in Batu Belig, Kuta.



Naughty Nuri's (Ubud)
Jalan Raya Sanggingan (opposite Neka Museum)
Ubud, Bali
+62 (0)361-977-547
Open daily 8am to 10pm
http://www.naughtynurisbali.com (Batu Belig branch)

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